Uyuni, South of Bolivia
(3443 kilometres cycled)
23.06.2008
Bolivia, has without a doubt, won the title of the most beautiful country of this adventure. For those who dare to challenge the cold of the altiplano, the sandy roads that turn into sand dunes, the lack of directions or accurate maps - the rewards are plenty! From lakes populated with the rare Andean Flamingo, reflecting the white capes of the mountains that surround them, the ghost villages with peculiar architecture made of adobe, the majestic salares, that cover in white and cold everything around them, the surprises are evrywhere, even when you don't expect them. I am in Uyuny now, after 16 days of non stop cycling. Uyuni is the entrance door for the tours of the Salar and if it wasn´t for that, it would be another ghost town of Bolivia. I will be here updating my website and spending some nights sleeping in a warm bed. Updates will follow soon.
Oruro, Southwest of Bolívia
(2860 kilometres cycled)
01.06.2008
Oruro is a city that lived its past from the mining glories, its main square and some neo baroque monuments atest its past. But the mining reality is made of those who spend their life inside the earth,and there are not many glories to be told by those. Their lives is lived without richness or plenty and so it must be the reason why the outskirts of this city, the same outskirts that welcomed us, are ugly and poor,and are also the sign of the decline in the mining activity, who fed many, in times that are now gone. There are around 236,000 inhabitants, but surprisingly the city manges to keep some order and quietness. We are at 3700 metres above sea level and the surrounding landscape is flat, yellow and dry - is the Altiplano. We cycled the 240 kilometres during 3 days where the tail wind pushed us towards here. We will stay here for a few days preparing the next stage - The Salares, seas that dried when the Andean mountains raised from sea bed. And besides pristine white, cold nights,our cycling is going to be hard and in unknown landscape. There will be news when I return from the unknown.
El Alto, La Paz, North of Bolivia
(2601 kilometres cycled)
24.05.2008
After a chaotic entrance we arrived at La Paz, or El Alto, a satellite city with over 1 million inhabitants and with the highest rate of population growth in South America. La Paz is located about 30 minutes from El Alto on a sinuous highway. From El Alto one can see La Paz and the impressive scenery around - mountains covered with snow, canyons and buildings that spread as far as the eye can see. The dimensions of these cities are truly amazing! At this moment we are being hosted by Wilma and Jesus, a warm and welcoming couple who host cyclists. We will stay here for a few days exploring La Paz, fixing the bikes, updating the websites and preparing the next stages of cycling which promesses a lot of adventure!
Achacachi, North of Bolivia
(2516 kilometres cycled)
21.05.2008
Finally in Bolivia!!!!! So good to set foot in a new country, feel its odours, greet the people, try its beer! After the last days in Peru cycling the shores of the Titicaca Lake we entered Bolivia through a border so idyllic that it felt unreal - no guards, no passport control, no mess - just the total silence and the breathtaking views over the lake after a steep climb - just how all the borders should be! Now we are heading to La Paz, the political capital of Bolivia and on the way we keep enjoying the great landscape of the Altiplano at 4000 metres with the deep and blue Titicaca Lake on our right hand side and the white mountains to our left : News will follow from La Paz!
Puno, Lake Titicaca, South of Peru
14.05.2008
The adventure in Peru is coming to an end, tomorrow we will depart on a boat trip to the islands of the Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at 3900 metres and then to Bolivia. And it is with anxiety that I am looking forward for a new stamp on my passport, Bolivia, promises to be the highlight of this trip. Travelers and cyclist alike consider it as the best of their travels in South America and it is no wonder it is so, from deserts of salt, to the highest roads on the American continent to colourful lakes with flamingos, jungle and much more. I cant wait!
Cusco, Peru
6.05.2008
After almost three months of cycling on the most tortuous roads of my life, with endless climbs, endless downhills, paved of dirt and stones, the arrival to Cusco in paved road was a real relief to my tortured legs. But it was worth the effort, because at the top of each mountain, and the bottom of each valley the landscape, the views and the people presented a true feast to the senses.Cusco was in times the capital of the Inca Empire and despite the partial destruction of the city by the Spaniards, the stone work madeby the Incas was such that most of the buildings in the city centre are built over Inca foundations. Cusco is without a doubt the nicestcity in Peru, at least that I have visited so far, and it is one of the most visited places in Peru not only for its beauty but also because it´s the "gate" to Machu Pichu.Machu Pichu, despite my expectations, is one of the most beautiful places I ever had the opportunity to visit. And it is indeed atouristic circus with thousands of people visiting each day, but its natural surroundings, its landscape make it without a doubt one of themost amazing places in the world!Back to Cusco, I will spent a few days here resting, updating my site before heading to Bolivia.
Ayacucho, Peru
9.04.2008
I finished my volunteer work and with it one of the most important moments on a personal level has also ended. Unfortunatelly I leave the Gorrioncitos on a very sad moment, Chantal, the founder along with Gil her partner, is in hospital with cancer and she will not be with us much longer. The atmosphere in the house is of great sadness , Chantal is like a mother to all those children, and a very brave and courageous woman with a stoic determination. All my positive enrgies are being sent to her.
Tomorrow we live to Machu Pichu, the physical challenge will be perhaps the biggest of the whole journey. There are 500 kilometres of dirt road with climbs and downhills that promess to keep my legs busy. I will send news as soon as I reach civilization again!
Until then dont forget to support the Gorrioncitos in thoughts and any other support you may, if you wish!
http://casahogarlosgorriones.org/english
Ayacucho, Peru
18.03.2007
Ayacaucho is located in the Andes in a green valley and is a beautifull well presreved colonial city. It claims to have as many churches as the years of Christ (33) and it hosts the celebrations of the most fervorous Semana Santa in Peru. I am finally here with the 25 children of the Casa Hogar Los Gorriones, many of these children have handicaps and were mostly abandoned by their parents. There are very sad stories. Some of these children behaved like animals when they arraived in the Hogar as their parents by ignorance didn´t know how to behave with them and they were left abandoned, imprisoned, negletect and malnourished. With the love they receive in this Hogar there are truly miraculous stories of recovery. I will stay here for 2 to 3 weeks helping out, playing with the children and giving them all my love. Please visit the website and if you can, give your support, as without it this project can´t continue! http://www.casahogarlosgorriones.org/english/
Huaraz, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12.03.08
After 8 days of cycling, I arrived finally at Huaraz, a chaotic city, where is hard to imagine the idylic scenary that surrounds it...specially at this time of the year when all the snowy peaks are coverd by the clouds. Here we can find one of the highest mountains in the world, and for the lucky ones who were able to see them, one of the most beautifull. The climb to the Cordillera was the most beautifull part of my journey so far. From the sunny desert to the imponent Canion of the River Santa. It was a slow ascent on a rocky road that my bike survived amazingly intact. Another day and I will get a bus to Ayacucho where I will do volunteer work on a orphanage. I will update you all on my new adventures soon.
Trujillo, Norte of Peru
19.02.2008
Finally in Trujillo under an inclement sun, surrounded by sand, in a oasis of colonialist arquitecthure. We are staying in a house of a fellow cyclist, Lucho, he hosts all cyclists that pass through Trujillo, and his hospitality and kindness are know worldwide, he is a kind of celebrity among all the ciclotourists. We are resting here, updating websites, enjoying the famous surfing beaches and the Pre-Incan ruins scatered pretty much evrywhere around here. Soon we will go to La Cordillera Blanca, and in the middle of March I will finally start my volunteer work in Ayacucho. See you all soon!
Motupe, Peru
10.02.2008
The days are getting hotter and lazzyness is settling in...after 4 days of being treated like kings, we had to leave Chulucanas, we made really good friends there, Rosita and Mario Salazar will always remain in our hearts. They welcomed us from the street, cooked delicious food for us and showed us around to see archeological sites. I left with tears in my eyes, it´s amazing how quick you get attached to people and how you wish them well as if they were from your own family. Cycling is becoming almost impossible because is too hot. Yesterday, after a late breakfast we lasted 15 minutes under the scourching sun before we all had to stop for 3 hours under a bus stop drinking cold Coca-cola and snoozing. If we want to get to Trujillo we will need to wake up early as it is completely crazy to ride under such sun! We are in a little paradise - a Quinta in Motupe, a lazzy little village, surrounded by Mango trees and cool breeze, we decided to stay 2 days and so we are enjoying a little break from the road and the sun, before we get to Trujillo and decide what comes next!
Chulucanas, Peru
4.02.2008
Finally in Peru,and what surprises this land has already revealed, we are at the moment camped in the playground of a private school in the house of an archeologist who took us today to see some of the historical sites . There, under our feet was what was left of a civilization more than 3000 years old, and not much has escaped the hands of the tresure hunters or "huaqueros" as hey are also known here. We are taking our time to get used to be called gringo all the time, but apart from that the Peruvians have been the most friendly people. The roads are flat and it´s very, very hot. Peru is without a doubt a world apart and I will certainly have a lot to tell. See you soon (depending on the computer resources here that seem to be very limited).
Macara, Ecuador
31.01.2008
Only 4 kilometres to Peru but I cant really say that I am looking forward to cross the border, Ecuador is a country that will always remain in my heart mainly because of the amazing people I met here and that I hope to meet again one day. Macara is like a farwest dusty town filled with prostitutes, militars and mosquitoes that bite like mad. It seems that all the friendlyness of the people stayed behind in the Andean mountains, here people ignore you or call you gringo. There are 3 of us cycling now. Jeff, who I have met in Cuenca (Nuno has already cycled with him before) has joined us and we will enter Peru together. There are some expectations about Peru because we have heard quite few mixed comments. I will tell you all about it in the due time. A big hug and speak soon!
Cotacocha, Ecuador
29.01.2008
Had to leave Cuenca without my parcel, and if you want a good advise, whatever you do, do not use Parcel Force, they are pretty dreadfull!!!!Anyhow this site is to talk about positive and good people. I am in Cotacocha after two very productive days of cycling. It´s been raining uniterruptedly for two days (one of them I spent under the rain cycling) and we will be heading South again tomorrow come rain or come shine, not long to Peru, only 117 kms, so see you there!
Cuenca, Ecuador
21.01.2008
Still in Cuenca but now more imersed in the life and people of this city that is starting to reveal itself. So, enjoying day and night in Cuenca, adding new friends and learning that travelling doesn´t always mean moving forward in the map!
Cuenca, Ecuador
15.01.2008
Still in Cuenca waiting for my bank cards to be sent and although it is a beautifull city (UNESCO considered the city world heritage) my feet are getting itchy to keep heading South. Nuno has already gone, he is probably enjoying some cycling in the jungle and I will be joining him soon! Cant´wait. Thank you all for your support.
Chunchi, Ecuador
02.01.2008
HAAAAAPPPPYYYY NEEEEEWWWW YEEEAAARRR to you all. Hope you had a great farwell to the old year! Mine was spent in family, after a few but hard uphill kilometres we reached La Moya a little village where Nuno´s friend family was waiting for us, we spent the New Year celebrations with them dancing and drinking shots of pure alchool from sugar cane mixed with little amounts of hotwater and cinamon, until 5 am, well as they say: when in Rome ... . Will be arriving in Cuenca much later than predicted but hey, this is ciclotourism and we have to go with the flow and enjoy each moment as it comes. Just want to thank you all for your messages and I hope you have a great 2008, may all your dreams come true! Speak soon, from Cuenca.
Alausi, Ecuador
27.12.2007
Slowly heading South, yesterday my legs gave up after two days of intense climbing off-road. Today I am recovering energies in a small town surrounded by green mountains and clouds called Alausi, with Saint Peter overloooking in one of the hills.The Christmas was good and simple, cycling uphill and camping again on a priveledge spot with views over the tiny villages and below the majestic moon that was palying hyde and seek with the clouds iluminating over the misfits, just a shame one of the locals who had drunk more than his decent share of alchool, threatened to set fire to our tent when we were asleep, off course I didin´t sleep all night. Curiously, in the morning, when he passed by again with a humungus hangover, he only mumbled an embaressed ´buenos dias´and continued his way downhill. There are other stories to tell so keep logged to my website. The New Year will be spent in Cuenca if the mountains allow. Big hugs and I hope you all had a great Christmas. See you all soon.
Riobamba, Ecuador
21.12.2007
I must appologise for the lack of news but it´s been a real challenge to find a fully functioning Internet place to allow me to do my updates, well, tecnicalities aside I am now in Riobamba, with about 200 kilometres on my legs. After 2 uninteresting days cycling in the heavy traffic of the Pan American highway, we started our climb in the flanks of the Chimborazo Vulcano (the highest in Ecuador) and climbed 4390 metres,pretty hard but worth every minute. The landscape when not covered in clouds was pretty amazing and we could see the big white impressive vulcano and all the slopes of crops and vegetation of the Andes. I will soon update the website with photos and you will all be able to share my experiences. All my love to you all and thank you for all your support.
Quito
13/12/2007
Still in Quito but not for long, tomorrow will cycle my first kilometres out of Quito and into the Andes. I been enjoying sight seeing in Quito as there is a lot to do and see, me and Nuno have been preparing our bikes for the big ride. I will keep all updated on how I get on. Just wish me luck
Thank you all for your support and speak soon!
Quito,Cumbaya
6/12/2007
End of Drama: I found my passport! The taxi drivers in Quito are pretty decent , so I got my passport back. To celebrate I went out, the city was buzzying with life and people celebrating its independence, music everywhere and also drunk people! Went today to the Old town, full of colonialist buildings and because today was a bank holiday also full of people in the streets and pretty much everywhere!
